1928 Maury Solera cash n°894 Les Vignerons de Maury, Selection de Gerard Gauby

rich, sticky, deep mahogany wines are what the area has traditionally produced, very sweet, long-aged vins doux naturels from variously-coloured Grenache grapes sun-shrivelled on the bushvines struggling for survival on the arid schists around Maury. That schist gives them great firmness and the long ageing in old casks results in appetising rancio flavours, the decongestant tang that comes from long, hot oak ageing. Alcohol has generally been added at some point to stop fermentation so that alcohol levels are usually around 16 per cent. These are wines to sip at the end of a meal with cheese or chocolate rather than being suitable to drink in quantity.


Solera 1928 does not of course mean that much of the wine was made in 1928, but that it comes from a lot of wine that was begun then and has systematically been refreshed ever since. The wines I have come across do taste very much older than one would expect at the price, and while sweet, certainly refreshing too. The wines are a bit chewier than a typical Rutherglen Muscat from Australia, and of course don’t have the same grapiness, but are made in a very similar way.
-Jancis Robinson, MW

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