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Niepoort is one of the Douro houses known for its Colheitas, a particular bragging point (among others).
1934 Colheita ($1,275) Bottled 1981
The 1934 is an example of a wine in bottle a long, long time—fortunately Niepoort’s Colheitas do have normal, long corks. If this handsome beast is this dense, concentrated and powerful now, I can barely imagine what it must have been like when it was bottled. My mouth waters to think of it. Remember, too, that this had less than 50 years in cask. What would a version bottled today be like? Besides the notable concentration and viscosity, it has powerful acidity to
cut through its palate and make it seem bright and vibrant as well, with some brandy in the background. Aromatics, viscosity, acidity, complexity, amazing finish—it isn’t missing much. Well, perhaps elegance isn’t a word you’d use often here. If it seems rich, the amazing nose is so powerful, projecting molasses and dark chocolate, that it promises three times that level of richness. The acidity cuts
the viscosity nicely, enlivens the wine and hammers home a deliciously, juicy finish that lingers more or less forever. Embarrassing to admit, but I forgot to brush my teeth after one tasting of this. The next morning, I could still taste it on
my teeth, identifiable and rather fresh. With air and a couple of days, this wine loses just a tiny bit of its rich feel and begins to show more of its powerful structure. There is a lot of underlying power here, period. It never lost that rich texture and viscosity. It seemed more or less identical on Day 2 to Day 1, perhaps even better. By Day 3, it seemed to acquire just a bit more austerity, losing a little sugar and becoming a bit sterner, with an increasingly intense dark molasses and treacle overlay. That’s relative, of course. Everything remained in place. It was never less than remarkable. Then, it settled in and remained largely unchanged for as long as I had it, about a week. Note that this is also a good example of
needing to drink the wine at the right temperature. Too hot (or, for that matter, too cold) and it could seem harsh, which is typical of many tawnies. Overall, I thought it drank best around 62F. At that point, all I could say is--what a remarkable beauty. This dense, full throttle Colheita simply takes no prisoners. If you’re looking for gentle and easy, this sure isn’t going to satisfy that urge on opening. It is a good example of how great older Colheitas can be—but also why some would just as soon have easier, lighter, gentler versions, typically younger. (Try Krohn’s 1987 or a Niepoort 1978 for an easier, more graceful style. It’s not just about age, to be sure, but also style and year.) All things said, this is simply brilliant. It is at a level of intensity and concentration that must be experienced. 99/100 points. Robert Parker
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