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Producer tasting notes: "Its aromatic profile, fine and complete, tends to minerality and white fruits. Also to be found are hints of white flowers, anise and menthol, brioche and sweet spices. On the palate, its lengthy vivacity is prolonged by its saline aspect. Never aggressive, it expresses itself through oyster shell as well as with notes of flint." - Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin
Aromas of peach, orange zest, lemon oil, white flowers and nutmeg introduce the 2021 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and fleshy wine that's impressively concentrated for the vintage, with racy acids and a bright, saline finish.
As I've written before, Benoît Droin's immensely dependable wines are among the most consistent in the region, and to my palate, the combination of Diam closures and élevages employing recently used and, indeed, occasionally new wood (though only up to 10%) means that these wines need a few years in bottle to show their best. But everything invariably comes together to impressive effect, and the wines age very gracefully indeed.
Farming is conventional at this 26-hectare domaine, but the soils are cultivated mechanically, and synthetic treatments are kept to a minimum. Harvest is early and is partially mechanized, followed by fermentation and élevage in stainless steel and wood, with the proportions varying according to the cuvée. In 2021, Droin opted to pick quite early, all in one go, and reported good sanitary conditions for the year, with the wines reminding him of a rather richer, fleshier version of 2007.
Drink 2024 - 2042
William Kelley, Wine Advocate (September 2023)
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