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Domaine Gauby is Gérard Gauby. The domaine has been passed through the generations of the Gauby family, but the grapes were always disposed of at the local co-operative. It's not an unusual story; along comes the next generation, and things have to change. But that shouldn't detract from the courage that such a decision requires. Gérard's first vintage was the 1985, and in the years since Domaine Gauby has gone from strength to strength, and would feature in most lists of the top estates of Languedoc-Roussillon, no doubt topping some.
The domaine has seen considerable expansion, from five to something more like 40 hectares. Much of this is Côtes du Roussillon, in the village of Calce, although Gauby has also purchased vineyards further inland, in the increasingly popular Fenouillèdes region. Wherever they are, they have the dramatic, garrigue-influenced appearance that characterises much of the landscape in Roussillon. The soils are chalky in the main - hence the name Calce, from calcaire, but there is also some schist. Grenache predominates, with some dating from 1947, with some twenty year old Syrah. Yields vary but are less than 35 hl/ha, typically 20 hl/ha for the Syrah. Vineyard management is biodynamic. Although initially the wines were tannic and extracted, Gauby has moved towards a more balanced elegant style in recent years, and the wines are much better for it. In addition the range has expanded considerably, and there are now a number of desirable cuvées both red and white
Domaine Gauby Côtes du Roussillon Vieilles Vignes 2002: A very dense, opaque, youthful wine. Vibrant nose, heady and perfumed, rich with thyme, crisp berry fruit, cherries, and a little whiff of alcohol. A fine character on the palate, showing thyme like that on the nose, with coffee too. Very correct structure underpinning it all, very dry and a little tight and withdrawn, a little lean in texture, but with plenty of cherry stone and mineral character. Nice length. Very good indeed. 17/20
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