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CT 91.3 (from 55 Reviews)
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=14589
This wine, the 1988 Châteauneuf du Pape from Vieux Télégraphe, comes from a time when control of the estate was in the process of transfer, being handed down from Henri Brunier to his two sons, Daniel and Frederic. I pulled this bottle from the cellar this weekend, and decanted it just an hour or so before drinking; it just got better and better as the evening wore on, so decanting slightly earlier might have been advantageous. It had a beautifully mature hue when poured, almost brick red at the rim, deeper and more freshly coloured at the core. But it is the nose that really alerts to the quality; a little dumb at first, but before long revealing notes of roasted meats and white pepper, along with a savage, animalistic, somewhat earthy and feral character. Soft, warm and cushioning on entry, remaining very plump and matronly through the midpalate, revealing just a little of the structure that lies beneath, which shows more on the finish. This is no shrinking violet; it may be ageing with finesse, but there is still a fabulous lick of tannin beneath as well. And there is fruit on the midpalate. It is very fine now, but the signs suggest this will continue along this plateau of drinkability for some time. Nice length, too! Just lovely. 18/20 The Wine Doctor
http://www.thewinedoctor.com/weekend/vieuxtelegraphe88.shtml
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