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Producer note: 2006 saw a continuation of a changing of the guard at this domaine as François Lamarche told me that his daughter Nicole (who is expecting twins and was not, for obvious reasons, available to discuss the vintage) "did 85% of the vinification and I did maybe 15%. In 2005, which was really my last, the proportions were reversed. Still, I can let go more easily knowing that the '05s are among the best wines that I have ever made. Besides, I'll be around to help Nicole if she needs it." As to the 2006 vintage, Lamarche went on to note that "we had good ripeness levels and virtually no chaptalization, at least not for the purposes of actually raising the alcohols. We began picking on September 22nd but the ripening while good for the most part, was also uneven and therefore we did quite a bit of triage to eliminate under ripe berries. As such, yields were a bit less than usual but as I say, ripeness levels were good so Nicole decided to use about 20% whole cluster during a 3 week total cuvaison. As to the wines, the aspect that I like best about them is their ideal balance. They're fresh and intense and the '06s are better than either 2000 or 2004." I would agree with M. Lamarche that his daughter appears to have a gifted hand because other than a curious showing by the Malconsorts, the quality of her '06s is actually not too far behind their terrific '05s. Time will tell as she will undoubtedly face more challenging vintages but hat's off to her for a better than fine debut! As to the Lamarche '05s, the scores and comments speak for themselves and these are wines that deserve a place in your cellars. (Jeanne-Marie de Champs - Domaines et Saveurs Collection, Beaune, France - fax 011 33 80 22 58 25 is the agent with many regional importers, including Scott Paul Selections, Portland OR, the Burgundy Wine Company, New York, NY, Glazer's Wholesale, Dallas, TX and Grand Cru Imports, PA; Bibendum, Goedhuis & Co., Laytons, Richards Walford, The Wine Society, Seckford Wines and Raeburn Fine Wines, all UK).
Tasting note: A very attractive blend of black fruit, Vosne spice and a moderate dollop of new wood introduces rich, full and notably ripe flavors that possess good volume and a velvety, indeed almost suave finish that cannot disguise the impressive power and robust structure. This will require the better part of a decade to fully resolve the slightly rustic tannic spine.
Tasted: Jan 01, 2009 Allen Meadows (Burghound.com)
Score: 90 Drink: 2014+
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