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The 2011 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Casa Matè has retained greater freshness than the Gavarini. At the same time, the flavors are dark, bold and intense throughout, with gorgeous balsamic-inflected overtones that add nuance. In 2011, with sugars mounting, Gianluca Grasso chose to pick the Ginestra before the Gavarini, which is not the norm here. As a result, the tannins are a bit dry and austere by today's standards, although in prior decades plenty of Barolos were made with tannins that weren't fully ripe. However, the flavors retain gorgeous brightness, tension and energy throughout, all of which makes me think the 2011 will come together over time.
Score: 94 Antonio Galloni,
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