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Mature Burgundy from this monopole site. Not available worldwide anywhere as far as I can find.
These are wines that demand age.
"In a world that now panders to point-chasers, and where the requirement is for young wines to be instantly friendly and easy to appreciate, the Bourées are something of an anachronism – that’s not an uncomplimentary remark, rather it is a comment to their style and their retention of a very ‘traditional’ outlook – or as they would prefer to say ‘authentic’."
"These wines need – indeed beg – time in the cellar, and from what I tasted their blend of elegance and aromaticity deserves to be successful – I only hope that there is still sufficient patience in today’s marketplace for Burgundy wines that need to be cellared."
Two of their vineyards are worthy of special attention: ...
Equally interesting is their small plot of Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champeaux; this is at the northern extreme of Gevrey, with very stony and often terraced ground, typically a little cooler here than for the rest of Gevrey’s 1er crus. Their 2 ouvrées is in a depression, completely (save for one small gap where a gate might be appropriate) enclosed by dry-stone walls of up-to 2 metres high.
This has the effect of creating a tiny, warmer microclimate vs surrounding vineyards – the wind simply blows over the top.
The only negative for the domaine is that it is impossible to get any machinery into this plot (!) hence, this is the one vineyard where they spray against weeds.
They use no ‘labels’ for their approach – bio, lutte raissonée et cetera, rather they pragmaticly do what ever is needs to be done, always trying to avoid excess. The don’t believe in a green harvest: ‘the vine has already expanded energy producing thoss bunches, so what is the benefit of cutting them off afterwards(?)’. The approach is to have a very short pruning, resticting yields right from the start e.g. their village yields vary between 25 and 40 hl/ha whilst targeting 35. As mentioned before, vineyard maintenance is mechanical – no herbicides are used.
Moving into the cuverie, this is where Bourée stand out from the crowd; the grapes go through a triage table (like many domains) but then without destemming they go into vats and are left to soak for days – real (i.e. human) pigeage is made without pumping over, and there is no temperature control – if a cuvée reaches 35°C or higher, then so be it. A bare minimum of new oak is used, only enough to replace older barrels, so in the order of 10-20%. There is only a very occasional racking, the wines will spend as much as two years in barrel vs today’s conventional approach of 14-18 months. Finally the wines are bottled, typically without filtration.
Given it’s position, the family are actively considering if some special designation (eg Clos de Champeaux) could be agreed with the authorities – maybe even a monopole badge.
Bill Nanson: Burgundy Report
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