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Chenin Blanc is bulletproof in terms of ageing. 1996 and 2002 2 great vintages
The 1938 is still showing as 'early' on RP.com!!!
The Huet is really off-dry, I'd say 3-4 out of 9 on the sweetness scale; The Moulin Touchais perhaps a little sweeter, more like 5/9. These are not fully sweet wines like Sauternes.
2 btls, Huet, Vouvray Le Haut Lieu, Demi-sec, 2002. No notes for the 2002. Average across recent vintages on RP.com approx. 93-94pts. To give you some idea, here is the note for the 2008 from RP.com
Intensely yellow-colored, Huet's 2008 Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Demi-Sec displays an intense, precise and brilliantly fruity bouquet of candied lime and orange peels, crushed stones, popcorn, chalky flavors and the aromas of a cross-roasted chicken skin. Round and highly elegant on the palate, with an electrifying acidity and a lovely sweetness, this is a very aromatic and fruity Chenin with a perching yet well-integrated acidity. This 2008 is full of finesse and elegance, and just perfect to drink. The finish is pure and salty, highly aromatic and very, very long, though also slightly phenolic. However, it's a beauty with flaw and thus highly recommended with food.
Drink 2015-2065
1 btl Moulin Touchais, 1996, Coteaux du Layon, from RP.com, 90 pts
The most recent release of Moulin Touchais (for more about whose unusual operation, see my report in issue 172) is a 1996 Coteaux du Layon that illustrates the striking combination of mineral and nobly sweet characteristics that were possible in this unusual vintage, though its notoriously high acidity is scarcely noticeable thanks to the balance lent by high sugar and the harmony conveyed by time in bottle. Alkaline and wet stone aromas here approach the effect of sticking one’s head down a moss- and algae-covered cistern, accompanied by scents of lily, narcissus, quince preserves, stale bread, musk, and sweat. The rich quince character is carried and complimented by a juicy and not at all heavy palate impression, and this finishes with remarkable refreshment and pronouncedly alkaline and stony minerality, as well as snuffed candle wick smokiness and bitterness of quinine. Prices for these wines continue to be quite reasonable considering their combination of quality and late release that permits access to mature nobly sweet Chenin. Such access was still nearly universal in the early ‘80s, when Terry Theise first piqued my interest in nobly sweet Loire Chenin, but gradually the art of holding old stocks died, along with the fashion for these wines – indeed, along with many once-renowned domaines.
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