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IN BRIEF
Fantastically concentrated, heavily botrytised Chenin Blanc at drinking maturity.
PRICING
Not currently available in the UK but New York Wine Warehouse are offering this at close to £70 each.
REVIEWS
93 points, Pierre Rovani, The Wine Advocate issue 124
"The gold and amber colored 1997 Coteaux du Layon St.-Lambert Clos des Bonnes Blanches' nose is a cross between caramel and molasses. On the palate, this unctuous syrup is crammed with assorted jams (cherry, apricot, peach) and mocha. It is full-bodied, dense, and heavy. Anticipated maturity: now-2005. As one of the "sugar hunters", there is no doubting the extraordinary, absolutely mind-boggling, levels of ripeness he attains, nor the tireless work that goes into every wine crafted at this estate. However, the question must be posed, is this wine or syrup? It reaches humongous levels of residual sugar, yet does it possess adequate balancing alcohol or acidity? This wine is heavy, plodding, and syrupy. It has more in common with a sweet Sherry such as Lustau's Pedro Jimenez than with other sweet Loire Valley wines. My instincts suggest that this wine will evolve quickly. It already shows gold, amber, even brown colors and reveals some evolved flavors such as molasses."
95 points from one review on Cellar Tracker
17/20 La Passion du Vin Forum
"Très beau liquoreux tout en finesse et en légèreté (lightness). Les sucres se sont fondus et donnent aujourd'hui un vin délicat sur l'orange, le pamplemousse, les fruits blancs, les fleurs ...
Beau vin."
CONCLUSION
Having tried four bottles of this nectar over the past eight years I can safely say that Rovani's drink by 2005 is wrong. This wine will keep going for an age yet. I would also dispute his exaggerated language of syrup and comparisons to PX sherry, there is freshness here as well as power. It does, however, show a marked amber-brown colour that makes it look like an Yquem with forty years of age.
Jo Pithon has changed direction since his sugar chaser days concentrating on dry styles with the occasional sweetie when the vintage permits it.
If you love a decadent wine experience then you need to get your bid on.
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