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The Himmelreich vineyard perennially produces the more floral and delicate of Prum's two cuvees. The 2009 is a wine of full on finesse that sees elegant flavours of peach, nectarine, white pepper and red slate flood the palate, balanced by the Himmelreichs textbook mineral elegance.
David Schildknecht
Pink grapefruit, banana, cassis and lily perfume announce the extreme ripeness of fruit that informed the Prums’ 2009 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese. Juicy and extroverted on the palate, it packs a sense of sassy brightness that perfectly compliments any tendency toward extravagant or over-indulgent ripeness. As to your being over-indulgent by drinking some, I’d say, “yes, you would be – fortunately.” I see no need to wait for a half dozen years to approach this. On the other hand, if you wait 25, this wine will still be waiting for you and in good shape. ||The Prums noted that their 2009s (harvested from mid-October to mid-November) were unusually expressive at a young age – even in September when I tasted, little more than a month after most of them were bottled – in that respect contrasting decisively, they thought, with the recalcitrant 2008s. (That’s their opinion, please note. My own enthusiastic account of their young 2008s in issue 187 testifies to my belief that those wines were themselves testifying eloquently, even though in general 2008s were said by their growers to be slow to open.) “Although the acids are very ripe,” notes Manfred Prum of his 2009s – drawing parallels with 1997 – “they are also very present.” This latest collection tops out with Eiswein from both Bernkastel and Graach (which makes two from the Himmelreich in one year, since the 2008 was picked in January, 2009) and a B.A. (or – depending on how it evolves – it may be labelled as T.B.A.) from the Wehlener Sonnenuhr, none of which I have tasted. (In keeping with past practice, I am not normally privy to the A.P.#s of every wine I taste from this collection, and the Prums remain anxious to assure me and my readers that whenever more than one lot of the same name in Kabinett or non-auction Spatlese range is bottled care is exercised to see that the differences will be minimal. In the case of Auslesen, I have however confirmed and included A.P.#s in any instances of two otherwise eponymous wines.)
eRobertParker.com.December, 2010
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